General Cure Fish Medicine


General Cure Fish Medicine

What is General Cure fish medicine used for?

GENERAL CURE™ API® GENERAL CURE fish remedy treats a wide variety of parasitic diseases including velvet, hole-in-the-head disease (Hexamita spp. & Spironucleus), gill & skin flukes (Dactylogyrus & Gyrodactylus ). For use in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. This fish remedy will not color the aquarium water.

What is the best medicine for fish infection?

Parasites – “Ich” (Pronounced ICK) is short for Ichthyopthirius multifiliis, the most common aquarium parasite. The most noticeable symptom of Ich is small raised white spots on the body and fins, however rapid breathing, rubbing against the decorations or gravel, twitching, or darting around the aquarium can be early indicators of an infection.

  1. Common triggers for the onset of Ich are a sudden drop in temperature caused by heater malfunction or adding cold water during a water change or introducing new fish.
  2. Incoming fish can be carriers of Ich without showing signs, but your aquarium can also have a latent population of parasites that existing fish have become resistant to.

New fish additions are typically stressed and have lowered immune systems, making them more likely to become infected. Scaleless fish such as loaches, catfish, and eels, as well as silver-scaled fish such as silver dollars, hatchet fish and bala sharks tend to be more susceptible to ich, but all fish can be affected.

If you think one of your fish might be infected, you will need to treat the entire aquarium, as Ich is highly contagious. The earlier you recognize Ich and begin treatment, the better your chances are of curing your fish. There are several ways to treat Ich. If you’re relatively new to fishkeeping, the most effective and safest way is to use an aquarium-safe Ich medication.

First, make sure the temperature of your aquarium is appropriate for the types of fish you keep (76° to 80° F for most tropical fish). Remove carbon and other chemical media from your filter and follow the recommended dosing instructions for the net gallonage of your aquarium.

  • Remember that after adding gravel and decorations, your aquarium holds 10% to 15% less actual water than its stated size! If repeated treatment is called for, perform a 20% water change and vacuum the gravel to remove parasites before each subsequent dose.
  • Make sure replacement water is the same temperature as the water in your aquarium.

Once you’re sure your fish are Ich-free, do another 20% water change and return carbon and other chemical media to your filter. Observe your fish carefully for the next few days to make sure they don’t experience a relapse. If white spots persist after 5 days of treatment, it’s possible that a secondary bacterial infection has invaded the lesions left by the parasite, and an antibiotic is called for.

See bacteria treatment below) Another method practiced by experienced hobbyists and those who don’t like to use chemicals is to gradually raise the temperature in the aquarium to approximately 85° F and maintain it for up to two weeks. The heat speeds parasites through their life cycle, and they eventually die off.

Adding an air diffuser to the aquarium is recommended when using this method, as water holds less dissolved oxygen as the temperature rises. NOTE: Only increase the temperature by 1 to 2 degrees per day and watch your fish closely for signs of distress.

If they begin to gasp at the surface or show rapid or labored breathing, slowly lower the temperature until they recover and consider an alternate treatment method. Also, recent reports suggest that heat resistant strains of Ich are becoming more common in the hobby, making this treatment method less effective.

Ich can also be treated with aquarium salt or uniodized salt. Some species of freshwater fish are sensitive to salt, so it’s important to do research before deciding on this treatment method. In addition to killing parasites, salt effectively lowers stress by reducing ammonia and nitrite toxicity in freshwater aquariums and can help bolster freshwater fishes’ immune systems.

  • For general Ich treatment, a ratio of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons should be used.
  • To avoid stressing fish, dissolve small amounts of salt in water and add the solution to your aquarium gradually over a 24-hour period until the full dose has been administered.
  • Observe fish closely and discontinue if they show signs of stress.

When doing water changes, add 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons of water changed. Treat only the replacement water, not the whole aquarium. Raising the temperature in conjunction with the addition of salt is also practiced but remember that both of these measures lower the dissolved oxygen level in water.

Regardless of which treatment method you choose, be sure to vacuum the gravel every few days to remove incubating parasites. Chilodonella This protozoan parasite produces similar symptoms to ick, such as labored breathing, gasping at the surface, clamped fins, heavy mucous secretion and scratching on objects in the aquarium.

An outbreak of Chilodonella is often associated with poor water quality. Discus and young fish tend to be more susceptible, but it can infect any fish. Effective treatments include formaldehyde, methylene blue and acriflavine. Raising the temperature does not typically provide any benefit.

Oodinium Also known as Velvet, Rust or Gold Dust disease, there are several species of this dinoflagellate that attack fishes’ skin and gills. Symptoms include what appears to be a yellow to rust colored dusting on the fish’s body, heavy mucous secretion, clamped fins and/or labored breathing or gasping for air.

Unfortunately, by the time symptoms are observed, the chances of saving the fish are limited and massive die-offs from this disease are not uncommon. The best treatment for Oodinium is Acriflavine. It should be noted that this product stains the water an electric yellowish-green that persists for a long time.

Water changes and the use of carbon in your filter will eventually clear the water. Copper sulfate can also be effective, but remember that it is lethal to shrimp, snails and most live plants, and is not as effective in soft water. Raising the temperature to 86° F is also known to kill Oodinium, but this lowers the oxygen level in the water, which is not recommended with already heavily stressed fish.

Fish Lice Fish lice are crustaceans in the genus Argulus. They have a broad flat shell, four sets of swimming legs and are easy to see. Infected fish may swim erratically or rub up against objects in the aquarium in an attempt to remove them. Upon close inspection, you may be able to see the lice moving around on your fish! Fish lice are usually brought into the aquarium on pond-raised or wild caught fish.

They occur most often on goldfish and koi, but they can infect any freshwater fish. Argulus attach to the fish’s body and begin digesting its body tissue. Severe infections are particularly damaging and can lead to secondary bacterial infections. Fish lice can be physically removed using tweezers, however, the aquarium should also be medicated to kill any eggs that have been laid.

Dimilin is known to be effective against fish lice. Anchorworm Lernea cyprinacea, known as Anchorworm, is another crustacean commonly seen on goldfish and koi, but they can infect any fish. They have multiple life stages, but infestation begins as what looks like a pimple or red sore on the fish, then later the string-like bodies of females can be seen attached to the fish.

  • Anchorworms bore into the fish’s body through the scales, attach using hook-like appendages and begin to digest body fluids.
  • Anchorworms also invade the fish’s gills and mouth cavities.
  • They can be removed using tweezers, but care must be taken to pull the entire parasite out, as they sometimes break off, leaving the head and “anchor” attached.

When pulling Lernea out of a fish, a small chunk of flesh is sometimes removed, requiring the use of antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections. To prevent further infestations, the aquarium should be treated with salt or Dimilin to kill eggs and other life stages.

Flukes Fish flukes (Gyrodactylus sp.) are a group of parasites that invade the skin and gills of aquarium fish. They attach using a set of “hooks” and begin sucking blood and body fluids, thus weakening the fish. Symptoms include loss of color, difficulty breathing, excess mucus secretion, listlessness, clamped or tattered fins, flared gills and small blood spots on the fins and body.

Like most fish diseases, fluke outbreaks usually result from stress caused by poor water quality, improper diet, overcrowding or aggression from other fish. They can also be introduced into your aquarium by new fish purchases that are not quarantined.

The safest and most effective treatment for fish flukes is Praziquantel. Treating the aquarium with formalin can also be effective. Lateral Line Disease (AKA: Head and Lateral Line Erosion or HLLE) Also known as “hole in the head” this disease is caused by the protozoan Hexamita and is most commonly seen in discus, oscars, severums and other cichlids such as angelfish, although it can infect any freshwater fish.

Typical symptoms are cavities in the fish’s temples and along the lateral line. Another symptom is white, stringy feces. Hexamita often starts in the fish’s intestines and then spreads. Poor water quality is often a contributing factor for this disease.

  • It is usually treated with metronidazole, also sold as Flagyl.
  • The most effective treatment method is medicated food, but if the fish has stopped eating, metronidazole can be added directly to the aquarium.
  • Nematode Worms Commonly referred to as roundworms, nematodes can have direct or indirect life cycles.

Those with direct life cycles can be passed directly from one fish to another when the fish eat nematode eggs or larvae. Those with indirect life cycles need a secondary host such as an invertebrate or another fish to complete their life cycle before becoming infectious again.

  • Roundworms can be difficult to accurately diagnose, and symptoms can be similar to many other diseases.
  • Common signs of a roundworm infection include hemorrhaging of the body, bloating of the abdomen or the opposite – wasting away even though the fish is eating well – cysts or lumps on the body, or the actual worm protruding from the fish’s anus.

Another symptom is white feces, although this can also be caused by internal bacterial infections or Hexamita (see above). Effective treatments include levamisole, metronidazole or praziquantel. Metronidazole and praziquantel are especially effective when used as food soaks.

How long does it take for API general cure to work?

If your fish is acting lethargic or not eating, and you’re not sure what’s wrong with it, I’d recommend trying this stuff as soon as possible. If it works, you should see results within a few days. If it doesn’t, you can rule out many types of parasites and move on to other forms of treatment with no harm done.

Can fish antibiotics be used for humans?

As these antibiotics, intended for ornamental pet fish, are manufactured without FDA or US Department of Agriculture oversight, they may contain chemical or microbe contaminates or be exposed to storage conditions that reduce the drug’s effectiveness and make it unsafe for human consumption.

Should I medicate all new fish?

How to Quarantine Fish – The process of quarantining fish consists of isolating them into their own tank or container until they are deemed healthy enough to join the main aquarium. Usually, quarantine tanks are small tanks, around 10 gallons, because they are quick to set up and it is easier to find a spot to fit a small tank in compared to large tanks.

The smaller size also helps save money if you are using medicine to speed up the quarantine process. Like any other aquarium, you will need the basic fishkeeping equipment: a filter and a heater for those who live in colder areas. A great filter that Buce Plant offers is the Qanvee Sponge Filter because you have the option of adding your own cycled media into the built-in chambers to instantly cycle the new tank! It just requires an air pump and some airline tubing to run the sponge filter.

A quarantine tank only needs the bare minimums, so it does not need to be scaped or have substrate, It doesn’t even have to be an actual tank. You can use any container like a storage bin, as long as it can safely hold water. A quarantine tank is just a simple, temporary setup to house the new or sick fish in. Qanvee Sponge Filter available at Buce Plant

Note : It is recommended to keep everything that touches the water of the quarantine tank separate from other aquariums to avoid cross contamination, such as aquascaping tools or cleaning supplies like gravel vacuums, buckets, and algae scrapers,

After several days of treatment, the ich was almost completely gone. Once the quarantine tank is set up and cycled properly, you can then acclimate the fish as normal before placing them in the tank. (Click here to learn more about cycling an aquarium.) You will care for the tank as you normally would with regular water changes,

Feed the fish as normal. The length of time for quarantining ranges between 2-4 weeks and depends on which process you choose to use: medicated or not, If going down the medicated route, you would add the recommended fish medication into the tank right when you add the fish in. Treating or medicating your new fish preventatively will kill any bacteria or parasites.

For sick fish showing symptoms of particular illnesses, you would treat for those certain illnesses, following the instructions and dosages provided with the medicine. You can follow up with a second treatment just to make sure the fish are healthy. Once fish are healthy, then you can add them to your tank.

  1. Even if the fish are not showing symptoms of any illnesses, you can still treat them with medicine as a preventative measure.
  2. This will speed up the quarantining process to a recommended period of at least 2 weeks.
  3. If you choose to not use medication, then they should be in the quarantine tank for at least 4 weeks.
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During the fishes’ time in quarantine, it is essential to keep an eye on them to spot any potential illnesses, so that they can be treated right away. In order to avoid mass casualties and keep your fish safe and healthy, quarantining new fish plays a vital role. When I first started out in this hobby, a lot of my fish would suddenly die on me and I had no clue as to why. It wasn’t until I learned about the importance of quarantining that the mortality rates began dropping.

How often do you use general cure?

For each 10 gallons (38 L) of water, empty one packet directly into aquarium. Repeat dose after 48 hours. Wait another 48 hours then change 25% of the aquarium water and add fresh activated carbon or replace filter cartridge. This package treats up to 100 gallons.

Does General Cure treat internal parasites?

Materials Needed – -We’re using API General Cure as our medication this time. General Cure has both Metronidazole and Proziquantel which will attack 2 different types of internal parasites. – Epsom Salt (not aquarium salt which is very different) Epsom salt is a laxative which will help your fish poop and clean out the digestive system.

How often should I treat my fish tank water?


Have your tap water tested for pH, alkalinity, nitrate and phosphate to make sure it is acceptable for aquarium use. Buy the largest aquarium you can afford or have space for. Larger aquariums are more stable and easier to maintain. Let a newly set up aquarium run for 2 to 3 days before purchasing your first fish. Test the aquarium water for pH, ammonia and nitrite before adding new fish. Always acclimate new fish purchases before introducing them to your aquarium. Research all animals before purchasing to make sure you have the right food, environment and skills to maintain them. Research all equipment before purchasing to make sure it is right for your setup and tank inhabitants. Change 10% of your aquarium water every week or 25% every two weeks. Replacement water should be the same temperature as the aquarium water. Always treat tap water with a water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and ammonia before adding it to the aquarium. Change filter cartridges at least once a month. Check them weekly and rinse as needed. Inspect your fish for health on a regular basis. A good time to do this is when you feed. Feed your fish a variety of flake, pellet and frozen foods to make sure they are getting proper nutrition. Always purchase schooling fish like tetras, barbs, rasboras and danios in groups of 6 or more to ensure their health and well-being.


Don’t completely tear down your aquarium to clean it. This will destroy the biological balance with disastrous results. Avoid water changes of more than 25% as larger water changes can stress your fish and upset the balance in your aquarium. Don’t leave the aquarium light on 24/7. This not only stresses your fish but can lead to excessive algae growth. Don’t place your aquarium near a sunny window or in a drafty location. Don’t buy fish the same day you purchase the aquarium. Instead, set the tank up and let it run for a few days before bringing your first fish home. Don’t purchase fish on impulse. Make sure they won’t outgrow your tank, are compatible with existing tank inhabitants and you have the right food, equipment and skills to maintain them. Don’t allow store water to enter your aquarium when adding new fish. Don’t add too many fish at one time, especially in smaller or newly set up aquariums. Don’t overstock your aquarium. Fish that are crowded may fight, and overstocking can lead to water quality problems. Don’t feed more than your fish can consume in under 2 minutes. Uneaten food can pollute the water and stress your fish. Don’t buy equipment based on price only. Make sure it will do the job you are asking it to do and will last. Don’t use buckets, scrub pads or any other equipment on your aquarium that have been used with soap or other chemicals.

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How do you save a sick fish?

What’s wrong with my fish? – The chart below can help identify fish health symptoms and how to help: Symptoms Disease Treatment Prevention Tattered fins, tail. Skin sores. Swollen abdomen. Bulging eyes. Red fins, skin Bacterial infection (Aeromonas, Pseudomonas) Isolate sick fish.

Add antibiotics to the water and use antibiotic-medicated food. Maintain good water quality. Quarantine any fish with signs of the disease. Fuzzy spots on skin, mouth Bacterial infection (Flavobacterium) Isolate sick fish. Add antibiotics to the water and use antibiotic-medicated food. Maintain good water quality.

Quarantine any fish with signs of the disease. Bumpy growths on skin, fins Carp Pox Treat affected areas with topical disinfectants. Add Formalin solution to water. When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.

  • Use anti-bacteria-medicated fish food.
  • White “pimples” on skin, fins Viral infection (Lymphocystis) Treat affected areas with topical disinfectant.
  • Add Formalin solution to water.
  • When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.
  • Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.
  • Avoid contaminated live food; use anti-bacteria-medicated fish food.

Cotton-like “hair” on fish, eggs, uneaten food Water Mold Treat water with Methylene Blue, Acriflavine, Victoria Green or Malachite Green. Handle fish gently to avoid injuring skin; avoid overcrowding; keep temperature stable and water clean. Increased gill movements.

  • Fins clamped to sides.
  • Lying on bottom of tank.
  • White or grayish “slime” on skin Parasites (Costia, Chilodonella, Trichodina, Epistylus) Treat water with Formalin, Malachite Green, Acriflavine or copper sulfate When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.
  • Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.

White speckles on body, fins. Scraping body against rocks Ich (known as freshwater white spot disease) Treat water with Formalin, Malachite Green, Acriflavine or copper sulfate When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.

  1. Golden speckles on skin Velvet Disease Treat water with copper sulfate When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.
  2. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.
  3. Spots on top of head, back Hole-In-the-Head Disease Feed fish food containing Metronidazole When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.

Quarantine new fish in a separate tank. Protruding worms. Poor growth. Weight loss Camallanus Worms. Capillaria Worms Add Levamisole to food. Feed an anti-parasite medicated food. When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.

  • Avoid contaminated live food.
  • Inflamed gills.
  • Excess mucus on skin.
  • Scraping body against rocks Gill Flukes.
  • Skin Flukes Add Praziquantel to water.
  • Feed an anti-parasite-medicated food.
  • When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.
  • Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.
  • Gray to white wormlike parasites on skin Anchor Worms Remove visible parasites with tweezers.

Add Dimilin or Trichlorfon to water. When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank. Small, moving specks on fish, in water Fish Lice Add Dimilin or Trichlorfon to water When adding new fish, do not add the water they came in.

  1. Quarantine new fish in a separate tank.
  2. Rapid gill movements.
  3. Rises to surface to gulp air Lack of oxygen Turn on filter, change water Keep filter running; use air stone and pump.
  4. Rapid gill movements.
  5. Inflamed gills.
  6. Mucus on skin.
  7. Fins clamped to sides.
  8. Lying on bottom of tank.
  9. Rapid death of multiple fish Poor water quality Treat water with ammonia remover, aquarium salt or other appropriate water-quality-improvement product.

Test water quality frequently; change water regularly; aerate and filter properly. PETSMART CARES Pets purchased at PetSmart are part of our exclusive Vet Assured™ program, designed by PetSmart veterinarians to help improve the health and well-being of our pets.

Should I turn off filter when medicating fish?

Before adding any treatment to your pond / aquarium or treatment bath: – It can be very worrying when your fish become ill. You may not know where to start, what to do, how to do it, or which product to add to treat the problem. We’ve created 10 rules for when you have to use medicinal treatments, but be sure to check our Diagnosis Guide and pop into your local NT Labs Authorised Retailer for help and advice to make sure your fish recover as quickly and effectively as possible: 1.

Make sure you have a correct diagnosis of the problem. Before you can successfully treat any disease it is important to know what it is you are treating. Until you have a correct diagnosis, you will not be able to choose the most appropriate remedy for the problem. Many parasite problems occur because of changes in the water quality.

If a disease is suspected, firstly test the water for pH, nitrite and ammonia to make sure there is nothing you need to do before applying the treatment. A partial water change will sometimes cause general improvement in the fish before treating. It is true that many different parasitic (or bacterial) infections require the same treatment and it is often tempting to put a treatment in the pond just to see if it “does the trick”.

  1. While this may work many times, it is not the best thing for your fish or the genreal health of the pond.
  2. To confirm your diagnosis, you should (if you are able) perform a skin scrape to check for external parasites and examine these microscopically to identify them.
  3. If you are at all confused or worried, head down to your nearest NT Labs Authorised Retailer and speak to them for some advice.2.

Remove adsorbent filter material. Nearly all the disease treatments available to fishkeepers have organic active ingredients (even those which claim to contain no chemicals). These organic chemicals are removed by adsorbent filter media such as carbon and zeolite, so remove these before adding a treatment to ensure the treatment is not removed before it has time to be effective.

  • As a general rule of thumb, the filter mediums can be returned to the filter 7 days after the final dose of treatment has been added, but be sure to consult the instructions to see if the product requires more or less time ot work.3.
  • Switch off UV filters and protein skimmers.
  • Ultraviolet (UV) light destroys organic chemicals, which is why they have become widespread as filters.

Due to this impressive ability to sterilise water by breaking down organic chemicals, if left on during a course of treatment, the treatment will be destroyed in the same way before it has had time to take effect. Some treatments may even be made toxic by the action of UV light.

  • Switching off the UV during treatment is a sensible precaution.
  • As another general rule, leave UV filters off for at least 7 days (the longer the better, up to 10 days if possible) to give the treatment the best chance of doing its job.
  • As with active filter media (see point 2 above), protein skimmers may also remove the active ingredient of a treatment before the treatment has had time to work.

To prevent this loss of the medicine, turn off the protein skimmer off for at least two hours after medicating. However, proceed with caution: remember that in a marine aquarium, skimmers provide an essential source of aeration to maintain high levels of dissolved oxygen for your fish, coral s and other invertebrates.

If you leave the skimmer off for an extended period, be sure to increase aeration to compensate and maintin the dissolved oxgen level in the aquarium.4. Increase aeration. Many disease treaments can reduce oxygen levels but none of them will be harmed by extra aeration so it is best practice to increase aeration if possible, especially you’re treating a pond during warm weather.

You should also remember that oxygen levels in ponds may be lower in the morning because the submerged oxygenating plants actually consume oxygen during the night when there is no light. For this reason, always leave fountains or other aerating features running 24 hours a day during a course of treatment.

  • Aquariums will suffer less variation in oxygen levels than ponds, unless they are planted heavily.
  • Regardless of the size or shape, however, it is still best to increase aeration whilst treating the aquarium.
  • If the water turns cloudy after a medicine has been added, this may be caused by a bacterial bloom (due to the steps you’ve taken to ensure the treatment has the best chance possible at treating your fish).
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These cloudy water-causing bacteria will consume oxygen as they grow, reducing the dissovled oxygen available to your fish, so be sure to provide as much aeration as possible from when you first add the treatment.5. Only use treatments when you have plenty of time to observe fish.

It is important to treat sick fish as soon as possible after a diagnosis has been made and confirmed. However, bear in mind the time of day (due to the amount of dissolved oxygen available, see point 4 above) as well as the time you have to watch the fish after adding the treatment. Never add the treatment in the pond or aquarium and then go straight off to work or to bed, just in case your fish have a bad reaction to the treatment.

Even if you have used the treatment many times before, there is always a possibility that the fish may react badly this time and you need to be there to perform water changes, increase aeration or whatever is necessary to counteract the reaction. Water conditions in aquaria can deteriorate over time so adding treatments may affect water chemistry one time but not another, simply because conditions are different (nitrate concentrations may be higher, GH and KH levels may be low, the pH level may be higher or lower, etc). In all cases, if you are uncertain of the condition of the water or why a disease requiring treatment has occurred, test the water using one of our mulit-test kits (such as Pond Lab Multi-Test Kit or Aquarium Lab Multi-Test ). It may be that the stress caused by a decline in water quality has allowed the infection to take hold, so you should check your water quality regularly and before adding a medicinal treatment.

  • Performing a partial water change before adding any medicinal treatment is a good idea and will refresh and help improve the environment of your fish.
  • As with all indoor water changes, be careful not to add water with a significantly different temperature to that in the aquarium, or this may stress healthy and ill fish further.6.

Do not mix medications. The one exception to this rule is products which contain malachite green or formaldehyde only. NT Labs’ Koi Care Malachite and Formaldehyde can be used together, but for your convenience we have formulated a product which already mixes these at an appropriate and safe dosage: please see our FMG Mixture for more details.

  1. We do not recommend mixing any medicinal treatments (except those listed above), particularly where the products are from different manufacturers.
  2. Netiher you nor any of the manufacturer’s will know of the cumulative, unpredictable or potentially dangerous effects the mixture/s may have, and we will only be able to offer you a “best guess” as to how your fish may react.

It is far better to stick with one manufacturer’s products one at a time, as they will be able to fully advise you on the problem. But you still shouldn’t mix them! During our time at NT Labs, we’ve heard lots of myths which are widespread but for which there is no scientific basis.

  • One of these is never to use Formaldehyde when there is salt in the water.
  • The only unsubstantiated theory we have heard about why this should be is that the presence of salt will make the formaldehyde come out of the water as a gas? This seems unlikely to us, since formaldehyde is used in marine aquariums where the salt level is very much higher without any problems.

We can find no scientific reason not to use formaldehyde when there is salt in the water.7. Wait at least 7 days before using a different medication if no improvement is seen. Allow time for the treatment to have an effect and to break down naturally and perform a partial water change before adding another treatment which may react with the first. For example, malachite green and formaldehyde are not appropriate treatments for skin and gill flukes, fish lice or fin-rot. Although they may help by removing any skin parasites which could be aggravating the problem, the main symptoms will remain and require treatments such as Flukasol, Permanganate Dip and Acriflavin for your koi pond.

Examining a skin scrape under the microscope may reveal skin parasites and flukes together. If this is the case, you will need to judge which problem is more severe (in this exmple, the flukes or the parasites) and treat this problem first. If you see a multitude of different parasites in a skin scrape, the best treatment may be a simple water change as such a mixture of diseases indicates poor water quality, unless you have added new fish without quarantining them.

When you are dealing with a parasitic and bacterial infection, it is generally more productive to treat the parasites first, as, once dead, these external parasites will often leave small open wounds where they have penetrated the skin which are at risk of subsequent infection.

  1. This way, the number of anti-bacterial treatment courses required will be reduced, but if the bacterial problem is the most pressing, treat this first.8.
  2. Beware of water temperature.
  3. At low temperatures, the metabolism of parasites, bacteria and fish alike will be lower, which is why fish feed less in the winter (coupled with the fact that they are generally much less active in the winter then in the warmer months.) Similarly, medicinal treatments will react slower in colder water, meaning that it may take a little longer for the treatment to take effect than normal and may require more than one course of treatment.

Because of these facts, it can be difficult deciding whether to apply treatments during winter months. As we have a duty of care to our fish, we would recommend that you treat any problems in your pond during this time of year. Not applying a treatment may allow the parasite or bacteria to spread (albeit, slowly) and gain more of a foothold making it harder to treat when the water temperature does start to rise.N.B.

Although it is perfectly safe to use Koi Care Formaldehyde at temperatures below 10°C, please ensure that this, and other products containing formaldehyde, are stored above this temperature.9. Feeding Generally, it is fine to feed fish whilst they are undergoing a course of treatment, as long as they are still eating.

However, always follow any specific instructions regarding feeding given on the label of the treatment, and do not be tempted to overfeed. If the fish are very ill and don’t seem to be eating much anyway, it would be best to stop feeding for a few days at the beginning of the course of treatment until the fish have recovered their appetite to avoid reductions in water quality.

  1. In general, NT Labs’ food products neither react with treatments nor affect filters and fish can safely be fed whilst there is treatment in the pond or aquarium.
  2. Please be aware that uneaten food will degrade and may pollute water reducing water quality, so if fish are uninterested, do not feed.
  3. If, however, the biological filtration system should be damaged by the addition of a treatment used incorrectly or a medicine that affects filter bacteria (all NT Labs’ products are filter-safe at their working concentration), feeding the fish could cause nitrite and ammonia levels to rise, leading to a reduction in water quality and causing stress to fish.

Check the water regularly during treatment, and throughout its life: regular, routine testing of the water will show the natural cycles in your pond, and can help you diagnose and fix a problem before it affects your fish. Monitoring your water during treatments will also allow you to see if the filter bacteria have been damaged by the treatment, and you can choose the appropriate filter bacteria product to help the filter recuperate.10.

  1. Follow the instructions on the bottle label.
  2. This is perhaps the most important rule of all.
  3. All veterinary medicines must have the dosage rate and instructions printed on the bottle label under Veterinary Medicines Regulations.
  4. Always follow these instructions, measure the dosage carefully and do not be tempted to put a bit extra in for good luck.

By following these rules, you should be able to treat your fish without a problem, but “prevention is better than cure” as the saying goes. Regular monitoring of your water quality (testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH and GH) will allow you to forsee any problems that are often caused by poor water quality.

Can a stressed fish recover?

In some cases, mild stress is something your aquarium fish can recover from but, in many cases, it is an early sign of something that can become a major problem. To maintain the health of your aquarium fish, you need to learn how to identify the signs of distress.

Can you feed general cure?

API General Cure and Focus food soak I would like to use API general cure to treat in QT for internal worms / parasites. Am I correct in dissolving the GC with DMSO, adding focus and some tank water to soak the food in? Then leave the frozen food to soak in some of that in fridge while I pour most in the QT ? There’s really no need to dissolve in DMSO, you can just mix in frozen food add focus and allow to absorb in food.

  • GC is good for internal issues especially with uronema and most internal parasites but lacing food with Fenbendazole will help with prazi resistant parasites I just put the GC powder in the food, and for the water column, I’ve not had to dissolve it either – so no direct DMSO experience.
  • But I think the ratios are different if you do use it, like a minimal amount in GC destined for food, and a little higher ratio in GC for the water column.

I use the recipe below, except I now add a few drops of DMSO to help the prazi found in General Cure to fully dissolve: Using a shot glass:

1 Tbsp food (preferably pellets or frozen food) 1 scoop (~ 1/8 teaspoon) of medication (General Cure) 1-2 scoops Seachem Focus (makes it reef safe + binds the medication) A pinch of Epsom salt to help expel dead worms/parasites A few drops of saltwater or fish vitamins Stir until a medicated food slurry has been achieved. Feed after soaking for 30 mins. Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use. You can feed this mix 1-2 times per day. Not recommend to exceed 2 feedings per day with medicated food. Feed daily for 2-3 weeks, or until poop returns to a solid brown or green color (no white).

: API General Cure and Focus food soak

Why are people buying fish antibiotics?

Alarming results from a new study show that people in the United States buying fish antibiotics online and consuming them because they’re more affordable than to go visit a doctor. The study sheds light on the high costs of health care in the country and how citizens are struggling to afford basic services. Image Credit: Numstocker / Shutterstock A team of researchers at the University of South Carolina College of Pharmacy examined online reviews from 24 websites selling nine different kinds of fish antibiotics. These fish antibiotics could be misused by humans, namely amoxicillin, ciprofloxacin, cephalexin, erythromycin, doxycycline, metronidazole, clindamycin, sulfamethoxazole-trimethoprim, and penicillin.

Can people use fish amoxicillin?

The consumption of these antibiotics may lead to dangerous unintended consequences, such as adverse effects that include treatment failures, and antibiotic drug resistance. Consumers seeking faster access to antibiotics may be consuming those intended for treating fish rather than humans, according to research presented at the ASHP (American Society of Health-System Pharmacists) 54th Midyear Clinical Meeting & Exhibition in Las Vegas.

The study’s co-author Brandon Bookstaver, PharmD, director of residency and fellowship training at the University of South Carolina College of Pharmacy, said the consumption of these antibiotics may lead to dangerous unintended consequences, such as adverse effects that include treatment failures, and antibiotic drug resistance.

The study, “Fishy Business: Online availability of fish antibiotics and documented intent for self-medication,” investigated the broad range of this potential misuse by conducting a comprehensive review of the online fish antibiotic market, in addition to customer reviews and comments available on websites that sell fish antibiotics in the United States.

While human consumption of fish antibiotics is likely low, any consumption by humans of antibiotics intended for animals is alarming,” Bookstaver said, in a prepared statement. “We were particularly concerned that the high volume of positive feedback on the comments about human use might encourage others to attempt to use these drugs.” Fish antibiotics are currently available over the counter, ranging in prices from $8.99 for a bottle of 30 capsules of amoxicillin to $119.99 for a bottle of 100 ciprofloxacin tablets.

The researchers also obtained and examined 5 antibiotics that were being marketed online for fish: amoxicillin, penicillin, cephalexin, metronidazole, and sulfamethoxazole. These products carry the exact imprints, color, and shape of available products meant for human consumption.

Pharmacists can play a critical role in helping patients access safe and appropriate medications, and in educating people about the dangers of taking antibiotics not prescribed to them, according to ASHP Director of Pharmacy Practice and Quality Michael Ganio, PharmD, MS, BCPS, CPHIMS, FASHP. “What might seem like a less expensive, easier way to treat an assumed infection can ultimately have very serious negative consequences,” said Ganio, in a prepared statement.

“Unlike antibiotics for humans or other animals, these medications are completely unregulated by the Food and Drug Administration. Even if the pills look the same, it’s impossible to know that medications purchased in this manner contain what the label says and are safe for humans.

Antibiotics, like all medications, should be dispensed from a licensed pharmacy after a diagnosis and prescription from a medical professional.” The authors of the study plan to verify the contents of the antibiotics as a next step in their research. REFERENCE Human consumption of fish antibiotics investigated in new study,

ASHP website. Accessed December 10, 2019.

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Are fish antibiotics FDA approved?

Español We share a lot with the animal world, and that is a good thing. Although it’s true that people and many animals are sometimes prescribed the same antibiotic, they shouldn’t be shared or substituted between species. You may find an antibiotic on a pet store shelf, or an online pet store, with the same name as a drug prescribed for you or your family members.

  • Drugs like ciprofloxacin, amoxicillin, and tetracycline are sold to treat bacterial diseases in fish and they are frequently prescribed antibiotics for people.
  • So, why not skip the trip to the doctor’s office and treat yourself with the amoxicillin at the pet store? It’s the same, right? Wrong.
  • Animal drugs should not be used to treat people.

The antibiotics available in pet stores, or online, for ornamental fish haven’t been approved, conditionally approved, or indexed by the FDA, making it illegal to market them. These unapproved products have not been evaluated for safety and effectiveness.

  1. They may not be properly manufactured.
  2. We don’t know how the products have been handled and stored.
  3. Because of this, they may not meet the agency’s strict standards for purity and potency.
  4. They also may not be properly labeled, so don’t substitute them for the products prescribed for you by your health care provider.

FDA is concerned about your health and the health of people who may self-medicate by taking drugs intended for animals, thinking they can be a substitute for drugs for people. You should never take animal drugs, as the FDA has only evaluated their safety and effectiveness in the animal species they’re labeled for.

Why do all my new fish keep dying?

Why Do My Fish Keep Dying and How Can I Prevent It? Fish can be delightful pets, with their brilliant colors and soothing swimming motions, but it can be unnerving and distressing when fish die for no apparent reason. There is always a reason, however, and understanding the most common causes of aquarium fish deaths can help fish owners prevent mortal mishaps in their tanks.

New Tank Syndrome : Before a tank has developed the appropriate chemistry to support healthy fish, heavy concentrations of nitrates and ammonium in the water can be fatal. In time, natural bacteria in the water will balance out these contaminants, but until that balance is achieved, fish may die unexpected. To Prevent: Test a new tank regularly for nitrate and ammonium levels, and change the water as needed to reduce levels so they are safe for fish. Rapid Water Changes : In a healthy, established tank, water chemistry is carefully balanced with resident fish, plants, and bacteria. Quickly changing large quantities of the water will disrupt that chemistry and shock fish, causing death. Water does need to be changed occasionally, but sudden, large changes will be harmful. To Prevent: Change water slowly, swapping only small quantities at a time and waiting 2-3 days before changing more water so the fish can acclimate to gradual chemistry changes. Water Quality : The overall water quality in a tank is a key component in fish health. The salinity of the water (for saltwater aquariums), pH levels, filtration efficiency, and other quality issues must be maintained within ideal levels, or any one of them could be responsible for dead fish. To Prevent: Research the appropriate water quality for your fish, and take steps to maintain suitable quality levels to safeguard fishes’ health. Temperature Changes : Most fish can tolerate a range of temperatures in the tank, but sudden or dramatic temperature changes can cause stress, which will make the fish more susceptible to illness. Very drastic changes can be quickly fatal. To Prevent: Check the tank heater for proper function daily, and position the tank away from anything that might affect its temperature, such as heating or cooling vents, sunny windows or drafty areas. Unexpected Toxins : Even small amounts of toxic contaminants can be fatal to fish, such as bug spray, hand lotion, perfume, soap, cleaning chemicals and other seemingly innocuous materials. If the water becomes contaminated with these items, fish will suffer. To Prevent: Protect the tank from unintentional contamination by using a good cover and keeping toxins well away from the tank. Always wash your hands with unscented, non-antibacterial soap before reaching into the water for any reason. Overfeeding : Fish do not need three meals a day, and overfeeding not only wastes food, but spoiled food can contaminate the tank and unbalance its delicate chemistry. Fish only need a few mouthfuls of food each day, and even though they may beg, they do not need additional treats. To Prevent: Plan a strict feeding schedule and do not deviate from that schedule. Adjust feeding quantities until the fish consume all the food in 1-2 minutes, and do not feed them extra. Unhealthy Fish : If fish were already stressed out, sick, or in poor condition before being introduced to a tank, even the best aquarium conditions may not keep them alive. To Prevent: Know the symptoms of common diseases for fish you want to purchase, and always buy fish from experienced, reputable breeders or dealers. Select only the healthiest fish in the best condition so they will better be able to withstand the stresses of transportation and incorporating into a new tank.

Keeping fish can be a great experience, and knowing why fish may die keeps that experience great by avoiding the most common causes of aquarium fish deaths. : Why Do My Fish Keep Dying and How Can I Prevent It?

Can I add new fish every week?

Your Aquarium: 15 – 30 Days After Setup: –

As ammonia is converted to nitrite and then nitrate, algae may begin to grow on the glass and other objects in the aquarium. This is normal and is an indication that the Nitrogen Cycle is established. Remove algae from the glass using a scrub pad or algae scraper. Never use a scrubber that has been used with soap or chemicals! As long as ammonia and nitrite levels are at zero, you can continue adding fish to the aquarium during this period. If algae has started to appear, introduce algae eating fish such as plecostomus, otocinclus, snails and other scavengers. If you don’t want to add more fish to your aquarium, try adding Aqueon Algae Remover to help keep algal blooms under control. Always test water before purchasing new fish, and only buy a few fish at a time. Wait at least a week between new fish additions. Consider buying a plant or decoration with each fish purchase to give newcomers to the aquarium their own place to call home. Occasionally, fish that have become established in the aquarium will act aggressively towards new fish because they consider the newcomers intruders to their “territory”. This is especially true among cichlids. Rearranging the aquarium and adding new decorations will often calm this behavior by eliminating territorial boundaries. Perform a 25% water change after 15 days. Remember to treat tap water with Aqueon Water Conditioner before adding it to your aquarium. There are different philosophies on how much and how often to change water, but 10% to 25% every 1 to 2 weeks is a good rule of thumb. Small frequent water changes are best. Don’t vacuum the gravel yet, as you may disrupt the good bacteria that are just starting to colonize your aquarium. Check the cartridge(s) in hang-on filters or mechanical filter media in canister filters and rinse solid waste off as needed. If the cartridge or fiber pads seem especially dirty, you might be overfeeding! Do not disturb biological media at this time.

How long do you leave new fish in water?

How to acclimate new aquarium fish · · How to acclimate new aquarium fish If you are buying new fish or shrimp, they may be accustomed to water parameters that are very different from yours, and therefore you may want to slowly acclimate or get them used to your aquarium water. If the animals are small enough, you can acclimate them in a or bucket.

  1. Cut open the fish bag and pour the animals and some of the water from the bag into the catch cup so the fish are completely covered in water.
  2. Add aquarium water from their new home into the catch cup so that the water level is doubled. (If the water gets too high, just pour some out of the container.)
  3. After 15 minutes, add more aquarium water so the water is doubled again.
  4. After 10 minutes, add more aquarium water so the water is doubled again.
  5. Net the fish out of the container and add them to the aquarium.

For an even more gradual acclimation process, look up how to do “drip acclimation” using a length of airline tubing. If the fish are frantically dashing around in the catch cup, you can calm them down by darkening the room and/or covering the container with a towel.

If you purchased the fish online and they were shipped to you, you may want to use the “plop and drop” method instead. The reason is because ammonia and carbon dioxide from the fish’s waste and respiration may have built up in the bag, causing the pH to drop. When the fish bag is opened, the carbon dioxide is released and the pH rapidly rises, causing the ammonia to become toxic and burn your fish’s gills.

To prevent this from happening, allow the fish bag to float in the aquarium for 10–15 minutes to acclimate them to the water temperature. (If the fish are in a breather bag that allows gas exchange, place the bag on the aquarium lid for about 30–60 minutes.) Place a fish net over a bucket, cut open the bag, and pour out all the water in the bag.

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Does General Cure treat internal parasites?

Materials Needed – -We’re using API General Cure as our medication this time. General Cure has both Metronidazole and Proziquantel which will attack 2 different types of internal parasites. – Epsom Salt (not aquarium salt which is very different) Epsom salt is a laxative which will help your fish poop and clean out the digestive system.

How long does it take for fish treatment to work?

Thankfully, treatment is usually effective, but you need to be prepared for a few days to over a week of treating the affected fish and water.

What are fish antibiotics for infection?

Keep pet fish healthy with fish antibiotics Are you currently asking yourself, “What’s wrong with my fish?” If you’re worried you may have a sick fish, help them swim back to health with this information on bacterial infections and fish antibiotics. How do fish get sick? Fish diseases often spread due to unsanitary conditions and poor water quality, overcrowding in tanks, increased organic matter levels in the tank and more.

  • When purchasing fish from a pet store, or directly from a breeder, they are more than likely harboring some form of potentially harmful pathogens from commingling in a tank with other fish.
  • Like with other animals, when introducing a new pet fish to your tank, it’s best to quarantine the individual fish for at least two weeks, and up to six weeks, to observe for any health concerns.

What are common bacterial infections in fish? Aeromonas infection This bacterial infection causes excess fluid in the abdomen, kidney damage, skin sores, red fins or skin, tattered fins and tail, and enlarged eyes. Caused by the Aeromonas salmonicida bacteria, the infection is also due to rapid changes in water temperature, unmet nutritional needs and poor tank sanitation, and injuries.

Fish antibiotics are recommended as treatment for Aeromonas infection. Flavobacteria infection Also known as bacterial gill disease, this infection can impact any fish; however, it most commonly affects young fish. Signs can include labored breathing and respiratory challenges, fish swimming near the surface, suppressed appetite, and red and swollen gills.

It’s often caused by overcrowding of fish in the tank, high ammonia levels and poor water quality. The condition can quickly worsen; treatment with salt water additives especially designed for fish tanks, and fish antibiotics, help fish survive this ailment.

Also, work quickly to reduce overcrowding, and improve water quality and sanitation. How do you administer fish antibiotics? The medication is absorbed through their skin and easily administered by dropping the pill into the tank, which dissolves into their water. Fish amoxicillin treats pop-eye, columnaris disease, gill disease and more and is easily administered by dropping one capsule, per 10 gallons of water, directly into the fish tank.

The fish mox dissolves rapidly and circulates through the water. The tank should be treated daily for a minimum of three days, but a five-day treatment is recommended. Fish doxycycline is also commonly used to control common infections in fish; it is administered in the same way as fish mox, dissolving into the tank to treat fish with infected eyes, fin or tail rot, skin ulcerations and more.

  1. To avoid stress to the fish due to oxygen depletion during treatment, use continuous filtration but remove carbon from the filter because it will remove, by absorption, the antibiotic from the water.
  2. Do you need a prescription for fish antibiotics? Fish antibiotics are available without a prescription.

To help ensure the healthiest, happiest fish possible, be sure to clean tanks regularly, avoid rapid changes in water temperature, quarantine new fish, and avoid overcrowding. And, should bacterial infections bring peril to their calm waters, be ready, and order fish antibiotics online from veterinarian-founded Valley Vet Supply.